Lash mapping is a great technique to help you determine which lengths, dimensions, and curls to use to achieve your client’s desired lash look. Us lash artists can sometimes get complacent with choosing our 'safe' styles and looks – which is why exploring different lash maps to achieve different looks can give you that extra push to step out of your lashing comfort zone!
Mapping out your lash sets allows you to create a look that is bespoke to your client. You are accounting for their natural lash length, eye shape, lid length and overall health of them. By using a lash map, you are able create a systemically masterpiece, with every lash extension in the spot it's supposed to be.
What you’ll need for lash mapping:
As a lash artist, you will come across many different eye shapes in your lashing career – some clients may even have a mixture of eye shapes. Eye shapes can include Almond Eyes, Round Eyes, Mono-lid Eyes, Protruding Eyes, Downturned, Upturned, Close set and Wide Set. (Please see below image) Accessing your clients eye shape knowing that no two clients are ever the same is vital to determine what curl, dimensions, and size you will need to create the desired lash set.
TOP TIP: If you are new to lashing and a little nervous you may want to ask your client to send a picture of their eyes before their appointment, this way you can access their wants/needs ahead of time and be able to ensure you choose the correct curl and size.
Start by looking at your client's natural lashes whilst they are sitting up, so you have a clear view on their natural lashes and eyes head on. This will give you a true indication to your client's eye shape. You can then access and take into consideration the factors that may affect your lash set - the natural length of your client's lashes, the length of their lid, do they need length towards the outer corners of their eyes to elongate the way their eyes appear, or do they need more length in the mid-section of their eyes to appear bigger more open eyed?
TOP TIP; Ensure that you always use short lashes when working in the inner corners. Don’t be afraid to use lashes that are shorter than your clients natural lash as this is vital for comfort and longevity of their lash set.
Choosing your lash mapping:
There are many lash-map designs you can follow to produce a range of different looks but remember every eye is different so make sure you adapt your lash mapping if necessary and don’t let the guide stunt your lash artistry! The most popular styles are: Doll Eye, Cat Eye, Kim K. You can achieve these styles by choosing a range of small, medium, and long length lash extensions.
Doll Eye Lash Mapping
This look can be created by using longer lengths throughout the mid-section of the lashes, creating the appearance of bigger, more open eyes. Using a curlier lash in the middle section will also enhance this look. Starting with short lashes and gradually getting longer, with the halfway point having the longest length and then gradually getting shorter again towards the outer eye
Perfect for almond, close-set, mono-lid
Cat Eye Lash Mapping
This look can be created by starting with short lashes in the corners and gradually getting longer, with the longest length being towards the outer eye. By following the shape of a ‘winged’ look this lash map creates the illusion of wider eyes with the longest length sweeping out towards the outside edge of the lashes.
Perfect for almond, close-set, downturned, upturned, protruding and round eyes.
TOP TIP; It is recommended to drop down 1-2mm once you get to the far outer corners of the lashes and these natural lashes can often by a lot smaller or possibly weaker meaning that they tend to fall and droop (which we don’t want!)
Kim K Lash Mapping
This trend setter style is one of the most popular, the Kim K look involves using ‘spikes’ (longer lengths) in different sections throughout the eyes to create a wispy style. Using length’s that are 2-3mm longer and scattered throughout the set creates the on trend look of spikey wisps.
Perfect for almond and round eyes
you can also find more lash mapping inspiration on Pinterest!
TOP TIP; Use correct lengths – you can add extensions that are shorter than your clients natural lash or up to 4mm longer. You shouldn’t go more than 50% longer than their natural lash as this may cause damage. A great way to tell what length to use would be to hold a lash extension against your clients natural lash to determine the length of their natural lash – this will help you the choose the correct length to use.
Here are common eye shapes that you may come across on your lashing career and our recommendations for the Lash Mapping Style that best enhances your client's set.
Almond Eyes; All lash maps suit this eye shape.
Round Eyes; Cat Eye Mapping
Mono-lid Eyes; Doll Eye Mapping
Protuding Eyes; Cat Eye Mapping
Downturned Eyes; Cat Eye Mapping
Upturned Eyes; Cat Eye Mapping
Close-set Eyes; Cat Eye Mapping
Wide-set Eyes; Cat Eye Mapping
To conclude, the overall benefits of lash mapping are;
They ensure symmetry is kept on both eyes
Help to define and enhance your client’s natural lashes
Guide you whilst you work to make sure the desired lash look is achieved
Enable you to create different looks and styles
If in doubt, just lash map it out!
And if you do have any questions head over to our Instagram @jwlashbrand and we will be more than happy to help!